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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked high among these food giants is a simple salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This honour has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their small shop achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.